55SENSI / Case Study 01

Asymmetry
is Structure

KHAITE — Jaia Skirt

Asymmetry is not an effect. It is a construction decision.

Independent technical study · Pattern development and 3D simulation

Surreal editorial interpretation of the case study: a figure in a white dress with asymmetric geometric folds among volumes and blue spheres
Reading the design

Reading the design

We chose to study this KHAITE skirt because, at first glance, its construction appears simple.

Yet visual simplicity does not necessarily equate to technical simplicity.

The diagonal that crosses the garment does not arise from a simple crossing of fabric. Its direction is established within the construction of the waistline and the relationship between the panels.

To understand a garment, before developing its pattern, we must understand where its lines originate.

This is where our work begins.

Technical development

Technical development

Frame from the 55SENSI process: reference images of the skirt alongside the basic pattern block

01 / OBSERVEObserve

Read the line before constructing it.

The analysis begins with the proportions of the design and the relationship between the waistline, diagonal and volume.

The aim is not merely to reproduce the skirt’s external appearance, but to identify the construction decisions that determine its shape.

Frame from the 55SENSI process: development of the diagonal on the 2D pattern alongside the reference image

02 / INTERPRETInterpret

Translate asymmetry into geometry.

The waistline and the distribution of the panels define the structure of the garment.

The seam lines, overlaps and grain direction are interpreted through the two-dimensional pattern.

The diagonal thus becomes a consequence of the construction, rather than an element added later.

Frame from the 55SENSI process: transformed pattern panels prepared for assembly

03 / INTERVENEDevelop

From reading the design to transforming the pattern.

The construction is developed by defining the panels, their widths and the relationships between the different parts of the garment.

Every transformation must maintain coherence between the aesthetic intention and constructional feasibility.

Frame from the 55SENSI process: 3D simulation of the skirt on an avatar alongside the pattern panels

04 / VERIFYVerify

Observe the behaviour of the garment in 3D.

The digital pattern is assembled and simulated to assess the distribution of volume, the fabric’s drape and the behaviour of the overlapping sections.

The simulation makes it possible to observe the outcome of the construction and make adjustments where necessary.

From the pattern
to 3D simulation

Francesca Fiorentini discusses the construction decisions, pattern transformations and three-dimensional validation of the skirt.

The result

The digital outcome makes visible the relationship between the initial reading of the design and the construction decisions developed in the pattern.

Asymmetry is not treated as a simple stylistic effect, but as a system of lines, panels and volumes that determines the behaviour of the garment.

Final 3D simulation of the asymmetric skirt on an avatar, front view, alongside the reference image

Independent technical study produced by 55SENSI for analysis and pattern-making research. Not commissioned, sponsored or affiliated with KHAITE.